Braga Day 2 (June 16) – Evening

When we arrived back from Bom Jesus we missed the most convenient bus stop and got off at the next one a bit further from our apartment. As we strolled toward the apartment, we passed the cathedral where an outdoor service was taking place in front of the main entrance. In an alcove to the left, a small choir sang responses to the celebrant at the outdoor altar.

We listened to the singing, then continued on. We noticed the beginnings of a religious procession along one of the side streets. Religious groups, in robes of different colors, carried banners or artifacts, or other objects with religious meaning. Townspeople lined the streets and reverently responded to the relics as they passed by. After the last group passed, many in the crowd fell in behind and followed.

The goal of the groups in the procession was to bring their banners and relics to the cathedral, and the goal of the people following was to be in the cathedral’s square to attend the outdoor service there. The celebrant spoke over a loudspeaker. It seemed like a sermon or homily, but it was in Portuguese and we didn’t know the topic.

The São João celebration going on this week is an energetic mix of devout religious services and activity plus popular parades with giant puppets, concerts, lights, and concession stands. There are multiple events daily for a week. Maybe it’s my Puritan New England upbringing that thinks this is an odd mix. Holiday activities are either secular or religious, serious business or simple fun, not both together (well, except for Christmas). In Braga, mixing the serious and the fun is no problem at all.

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